If your door does happen to be one that requires extra support beyond hinges, don't worry, it's still a pretty simple job.
One tip to keep in mind is that it's always best to measure twice and cut once. If your measurements have been accurate and you have properly fit the jamb side in the rough opening, it should be a simple matter of fastening on the hinge side as well. In most cases this is as easy as stretching out some heavy spring tension, using a battery drill or driver to drive screws through hinges into framing members. There are times when you need to employ additional support for an old door that will bear a lot of weight or open and close with a bigger arc - especially those that divide spaces where privacy is paramount (such as bathrooms). This type of door will typically affix onto a header by means of a steel strap, which is screwed into the framing on each side. If your door does happen to be one that requires extra support beyond hinges, don't worry - it's still a pretty simple job. The trick is getting all of your measurements right before you start cutting and screwing. In the step-by-step instructions that follow, we'll walk you through some common scenarios for a "hanging" door with a door frame that requires more-than-average support. However, if hanging a non-standard door frame becomes too complicated or time-consuming, consider consulting a carpenter or hiring a handyman to complete the task for you.
You don't need any specialised tools for hanging a door, but a power drill/driver and a tape measure are critical. You may also want to use a level to make sure everything is going up straight.
If you happen to be installing two doors side by side, as is often done in entryways, you should definitely use shimming blocks under the jamb of the first door as it hangs. This makes your job much easier when you install the second one.The most common type of hinge is a gravity hinge, which keeps the cabinet closed and prevents it from swinging out when the door is opened. You'll also find spring-loaded hinges that help to open doors with a full overlay and ones in which the top of the door is heavy. These work by applying inward pressure as you open them. Tilt hinges are also available that allow the door to swing open from the top. Other types of hinge include the third hinge, loose pin hinges, bottom hinge, and more
When installing multiple doors, a lot of people make the mistake of not setting up guide strings or using shimming blocks under the first door as it hangs - this makes your job much easier when you install the second one. Another common mistake is overdriving screws into delicate mouldings, which can split the wood inside and outside. If you plan on painting your new door, be sure to use quality paintable caulk between all trim and jambs before painting both sides of the new door. When you're done hanging your door, don't forget to wipe away any pencil lines, especially from the top of the door, which is a place you can easily overlook. While this isn't a major issue, it can ruin the aesthetic of your door.
Hanging a door with a steel track is fairly simple. If you're installing one door, drill two holes in the header, at either side of the opening. Screw an L-shaped bracket to each hole. You can cut off excess brackets but leave them long enough to hold your tracks securely. It's easier to set up if you have help - position the tracks on their brackets and close the door onto them before screwing them into place. After setting up both sides of the track, install the door itself using a hinge that is designed for this kind of system (gravity hinges will not work). Even better, use magnetic cabinet catches so they don't even require any effort to open and close.
Most doors will require a frame of some kind to support them, whether it's a doorstop or door jamb that's already in the wall, or something you build yourself for an entirely new installation. This can be as easy as screwing into existing studs or joists to support the weight of the door, especially if you're hanging just one door. Or, it might mean building your own support structure from scratch using 2x4's and plywood. This is what you'd do if you were installing two doors side-by-side or fitting out an entirely new opening with bookcases on either side of the rough opening.
Power drill/driver.
Circular saw.
Sharp chisel.
Tape measure.
A level (for placing both exterior and interior doors).
Shims (if your frame doesn't quite match the size of your door - most commonly used with pre-hung units).
A stud finder (for locating joists in your wall - you can't simply screw directly through drywall, even if it's a finished room).
Hinge plate (or several).
Marking gauge.
Dust mask.
Utility knife.
Combination square and a sharp pencil.
Wooden wedge (or several).
Hinge screws and other screws that you may need.
An electric plane.
On the inside of the jamb, place an L-shaped guide string/wire above each hinge location. When there are multiple hinges on one side of your new door, it won't be practical to use guide strings at every hole - instead, use one or two wires across all of them. Make sure they are taut and level and that you're holding them in the exact position before driving screws into the jamb side of the hinges. Once you have taken care to set up your outside guides, drill holes for your hinge screws at their location on the door. Screw in the pre-installed hinges and check to make sure the door swings freely, then drive one screw after the other into place to attach your shims. Your door should swing smoothly without any further adjustments, but you might need to fine-tune it with a rubber mallet if there is significant contact with the door frame.
It doesn't matter much - you'll probably find there are much better instructions on the packaging for your door hinges. Make sure they aren't too tight before you screw them in, as this can make it much more difficult to install the door later.
Hanging doors with doorstops is often easier than shimming, but if you don't want to risk splitting the new frame or jamb, it's simpler to use shims. You may also need shims if your wall isn't perfectly straight - just screw them into place along any sagging areas until everything is level and plumb.
A shim is a thin wedge of wood that can be used to fill a small gap or raise an item slightly. When they go in small gaps, they make the gap tighter. They are typically used with carpentry projects, but they are also very handy for hanging doors.
Shims are typically inserted between two items, such as the wall and the door, so there's no need to glue them in place. Start with measuring your space using a tape measure. Once you have determined how thick of a shim you will need, cut the piece out of the right type of wood that is sturdy enough to support everything without ripping or bending under pressure. Hammer it into place at each corner until everything fits perfectly together snugly. Make sure not to use too much pressure, as this could split your frame or jamb.
First, set up support brackets inside the opening that will hold both sides of the track system. It may be easiest to attach these first before setting up your tracks, but if you have a pre-assembled track, you can set it up in the opening and attach the brackets later.
Use a level to make sure the track is straight before drilling one screw after the other into place. Since you now have a solid base for your door, you should see that the new door opens smoothly without any further adjustments.
When there are no tracks involved, this is actually an incredibly easy process. Everything from installation through to hanging your doors should take under an hour.
First, find studs in your wall, or install blocking between joists above where your doors will go. A drywall installer can help with this if necessary. Once your blocking is in place, install a header with two cleats.
If you'll be inserting hardware for hinges and handles when the door is installed, make sure to do this after you've set up your header. Then, install your track system to the header and let everything settle. You'll be working with gravity here, not screws or nails.
Install all of your spring-loaded hardware next, including hinges and handles if necessary. Your doors should open smoothly once you have everything in place - check them a few times over a couple of days to ensure that this is still the case and that the door fits properly. If you need to fine-tune anything at this point, it's very easy to do so.
If your door is sticking or not opening properly, this could be because it doesn't fit the frame well. Fixing these problems can be tricky without professional help, but you can try adding shims along the door edge to make everything flush. If adding shims to the leading edge of the door isn't an option, you may need to do some more intricate repairs like replacing a section of damaged moulding around the hinge side of your door.
If your door has started to warp over time, it may be that the humidity level in your home isn't high enough. Consider installing a dehumidifier or opening windows and doors throughout the day to ensure air is circulating well. If this doesn't help, try using shims along the frame of the door to make everything flush. If your pre-hung door won't fit into your frame may need to remove it or crack around it so that the exterior (the opposite of the lock side of the door) now lines up with where you want it positioned on your wall. Use caution when doing this as not all frames are the same.
Make sure you have the right tools available before beginning.
Once you have everything ready, start by opening the old door as wide as it will go. Measure the gap between your hinges (keeping all the hinge positions, including the top hinge, middle hinge, and bottom hinge in mind) and where they should be on the other side of the wall or frame.
Remove any existing screws from the hinge side using your screwdriver - you'll need to do this carefully so that you don't strip anything out of place.
Next, find replacement screws that are exactly like what you removed (they should be the same thickness and size if possible) and fit the screw holes. Carefully reattach them to your hinges, holding the door steady, before closing up the door again.
Your goal is to make sure it closes properly with no resistance before opening all the way; if necessary use shims or spacer blocks to get the right fit. Properly-installed are doors are important for home safety, as outlined on the Australian Government's Your Home website.If you've ever had to remount an existing door, it probably wasn't a great experience. You likely fought with the weight of it or struggled to line up screws and fasteners properly. It's possible to remount an old door without any additional help if necessary. Start by removing all hinges from the exterior doors (that is, the opposite of the strike side of the door). Then, lay it flat against your workbench or even on its face on top of some sawhorses if that's easier for you. Once the right side of your door is perfectly aligned, use spacer blocks to hold everything tight while you screw in new hinges from outside in. Make sure you're not working with the wrong side of the door, as this can cause serious issues. You may need an extra set of hands for the next step - take your time with this part! Open the door as far as it will go, then carefully lift it up by itself. Line up the hinge positions on your interior door with the new hinge position on the opposite side of the door and press the hinge recesses to meet the old door frame. When you're satisfied that everything is properly attached and the hinge recesses look fine, close up your door one last time to double-check for any loose pieces or misaligned parts. Once this final step is done, reattach all of your hardware so you can use it again. If you're still uncertain about how to hang a door, considering contacting professional handyman services for help. They can help you hang your new door properly, they're also helpful in situations in which you need more specialised help, including:
Hanging a heavy fire check door safely.
Making sure the door lining and frame is installed properly.
Installing the strike plate, lock block, and rest of the lock on your door.
Applying weather strip around the door opening of both your internal door and external doors as needed.
Making sure there is no damage to the other components on and around your door, including any light switch located near the door, the floor covering, and so on.