A puddle flange is a type of slip joint connection that joins two sections of pipes together.
The most common example is joining sections of copper water pipe together with lead solder. Other examples include joining ABS or PVC piping using solvent cement and joining polybutylene piping using an insert or a polybutylene flange.
A puddle flange is an assembly comprising two pipe flanges held together with bolts and gaskets in order to make a watertight connection with no welding.
The "puddle" part refers to the solder used when they were first created to put them together. This is an old method now replaced with solvent welding, which can be done on-site without having to install special equipment (and replace previously installed pipe) and a lot of plumbers tape or waiting for it to dry.Now, most are made of plastic, but PVC and polybutylene are still the most common material used today.
A puddle flange is not absolutely necessary in most cases, especially in a bathroom. However, it can make for a much more watertight installation to prevent water seepage than the slip couplings often used when two lengths of pipe are butted together at right angles.
To grasp exactly what is a puddle flange, you'll have to know where to find it. Puddle flanges are generally found in copper, ABS, or PVC piping system, particularly where new construction is involved.
They usually consist of two large aluminium or brass end caps with an O ring gasket separating them; between these two caps (which fit over either side of the joining pipe) bolts pass through holes and provide pressure against the O rings.The two parts of the joint are held in compression against each other by these bolts, even when empty or pressurised with water.
The main advantage is that it provides a very effective seal that can be more easily monitored for leaks during testing. This is particularly valuable when working on new building construction where access might be easy, or in an existing installation where some kind of connection between pipes has already been made and waterproofing may have suffered some damage since it was last inspected.
Another benefit is that they can make plumbing repairs cheaper and easier because they do not usually require any additional connections (such as solder fittings ) and they transfer pressure (which is important in any water-carrying system) more easily than slip connections.The primary disadvantage over other connection techniques, such as solvent welding or mechanical compression unions, is that it is not possible to monitor leaks without opening the puddle flange itself (catching water itself does not work well for detecting leaks). This necessitates either two inspections, one before and one after tightening the bolts. It can be very difficult to tighten them evenly, which will have a negative effect on the seal itself. The secondary problem lies with soldering. Because a torch must be used, there is a chance that certain components may not perform as expected due to heat damage during the soldering (such as the stress of the pipe itself, or distortion due to heat).
The answer is no, but it would help. A puddle flange on a shower is not necessary for plumbing reasons, but it can be beneficial if you are hand-mixing plaster or concrete to create the surround of the shower. The flange will provide you with an easy way to make sure that your joint between the base and walls of your shower is watertight. You can dry fit (without glue) all parts of your project together before taping off around the outside edge of the flange, applying waterproof adhesive caulk around all edges, and back-buttering with flexible sealant over the entire area where water might pass through the joint plane. This will ensure that there are no gaps in your finished wall or floor that could result in leaks. You will apply a layer of caulking tape over the top of the flange to ensure that no water passes through the joining plane between the wall and base. The caulk should seal everything, but it is a good idea to check your work with a hose or bucket of water at various points around your shower to check for any leaks after installation is complete.
No, you do not glue in a puddle flange. Plumbers screw-in puddle flanges to make them airtight. An adhesive alone will never fill the gap between the two opposed surfaces that are being urged against one another by bolts that are tightened down until they cannot be tightened any further. This gap must be filled with an elastic material that will easily "give" but then go back to its original state once pressure has been released—this is why plumbers use O-rings or rubber gasket threaded connections rather than using sealants alone.
Puddle flanges are used to create a watertight connection between concrete and copper pipe. Ideally, they're installed during the early stages in the construction of the concrete structure into the floor substrate, in order to ensure a flush finish with your tiles.
Puddle flanges work the same way any other threaded or compression fitting does, but because there are no parts that are designed to be glued in place, you must ensure that all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned before applying sealant (if necessary) and ensure your components are installed with a plumber's putty.
Once they are installed, tighten them down securely with channel locks or adjustable wrenches until they do not go any tighter. This ensures the drainage outlet on your floor is able to drain all the water.
You might have to use some penetrating oil on stubborn joints for several days before assembly is complete, especially when working with older cast iron fittings which tend to corrode at the threads.
Once it is assembled, make sure that everything is in the right place and then back-butter with flexible silicone or fibreglass reinforced pipe dope before applying a thick bead of caulk all the way around the joint. It's best to check all work against the various plumbing codes of Australia.You should endear to find puddle flanges for your floor substrate that are easy to install and cost-effective. A puddle flange with features for a floor waste grate that will allow moisture from the sub-tile to escape. And if installed in a flush finish with your floor substrate will enable efficient waterproofing, as you'll be able to drain all the water to avoid any water seepage that may affect the longevity of your concrete and timber floor.