The depth of the hole should be about 25 per cent of the fence post hole's length to provide adequate strength.
When ordering or when you dig fence post holes, fence, or pergola components, remember your fence post needs to be 1.8 m tall, order a 2.4 m tall post.
The hole depth of the fence post hole should be about 0.6 m to provide adequate strength for post positions.
Start digging a hole. Be sure to set the set posts in concrete to provide weatherproofing and stability. Level the ground as best as possible before drilling about ground level. Then dig your post holes with an appropriate shovel or post hole digger to accommodate the soil conditions you encounter (i.e., rocky ground). Post hole diggers are much more effective than spade shovels because they can be used by one person and offer better leverage for deeper holes, As it requires hard work and adding water.
Use string lines and stakes or timber posts if necessary to create straight rows/lines of where your fencing posts will be placed and dug clean water and better drainage. Measure the length and width of your property to determine how many fencing posts will be required and have the correct distance table diameter.
With a string line and stakes, mark the exact location where you plan to place your fence/pergola posts and dig your post hole at least 25 per cent hole depth than the height of each fence post hole. Add a few inches extra if the soil type is less compact or has poor drainage than expected (and more arduous digging).
Levelling dirt around the base with a concrete mix can help prevent heaving when exposed to freezing and thawing conditions in the long run. Use a spirit level to make sure your post holes are straight, then insert one end of an untreated 4x4 or 6x6 pressure-treated post into each hole using a hammer or pry bar as necessary. Drive it down until only about 15 to 20 cm of the post is exposed above ground. Pour concrete mix into each hole after digging, making sure to set the bar in well. Let set until cement-based products are dehydrated before continuing with your metal or wood fencing project.There are many options for fence posts, but treated wood (especially pressure-treated) is by far the most popular. Other fencing materials include aluminium, galvanised steel, and even recycled plastic or gravel.
Treated wooden posts with traditional pickets/planks (the most common method).
Vinyl or possibly PVC railings with boards on top (cheaper than wood and easy to install).
Aluminium or galvanised steel posts with decorative rails/panels (long-lasting and weather resistant).
Recycled plastic posts and panels (often used in commercial applications; very durable but expensive).
Pressure-treated lumber is typically the most popular choice due to its durability and affordability. However, cedar and redwood are great options because they last long without rot or decay damage. If you live in an area where termites are common, look for pressure-treated lumber with an insecticide treatment. In some areas, it's illegal or unsafe to use untreated wood for this purpose (so check with your local authorities first!).
The number and size of your fence post holes will depend on what you're trying to accomplish and how much weight each post must support. A typical stockade fence with 2x4 lumber and pickets would require approximately one post every 3m. It's important to note that you should use more prominent fence posts in the ground when dealing with taller fences for aesthetic purposes. Also, it's a lot easier. Shorter walls can get away with using smaller, cheaper posts.
There are many ways to attach a fence post to a fence, but most people use either nails/staples or screws. Nails and pins are suitable for temporary or low-stress applications, whereas screws are better for heavier fences that will be holding up more weight over the long term.
Most wood and metal fence posts can be set into the ground directly. However, you should know that wooden posts rot much faster when they're in contact with concrete or moist soil, which means you'll need to replace them well before you would a metal post (metal doesn't rust!). If you don't want to replace your old fence posts every few years, it might be better to use a different material such as steel or recycled plastic.
The correct placement of your fence post braces will depend on what you're trying to accomplish. You need a shorter amount if you want your fence to stay sturdy (you'll place it closer to the post). If you desire your wall to be more 'floaty' and not rigid, then place your braces further apart. Also, note that longer braces are better for taller fences because they make them sturdier. It is also essential to check for underground cables before installing your fence.
You don't need to have a lot of professional experience or expensive tools to drop a fence post into the ground. All you need is a decent shovel, spirit level, posthole digger, something to hammer in your fence post (there's a metal attachment explicitly designed for this purpose), and the best type of concrete mix according to your local weather conditions. If it's going to be very hot or very cold, make sure you use a combination that hardens fast!
This is a common question. However, there isn't any such thing as 'the cheapest' type of fencing because there are always trade-offs depending on what you're trying to accomplish. Stockade or picket fences tend to be cheaper than other options, making them very popular for DIY homeowners.
There are many ways you can waterproof a wooden fence, but the most effective ones involve applying either stain/sealer or paint onto the wood to prevent moisture from going through it. If your wall is already rotting, though, no amount of sealant will make it 'waterproof' again. You should replace any rotten sections ASAP if you want your fence to last longer.
Need some fencing tips from the professionals? Take a look at this guide to fencing by the Western Australian State Government.